According to Susan Saltzgiver Designs - Mushrooms and Moles
FRAMING INSTRUCTIONS - (very, painfully so,  detailed)  - by Susan Saltzgiver

Preparing to Mount

I put everything on foam core / foam board (AC Moore, Ben Franklin, Wal-Mart, etc).  Foam board
without the outside is cheaper, but mot as strong.  I prefer the "
FOAMCORE".  Some has changed
to just 'foam board' with no covering, and it can be used, but the "foam core" is stronger.

Always allow at least 3" of fabric on all sides of the design (that's 6" added to both dimensions of
the design).

Allow 1" all the way around the design when determining the size to cut the foam core (I use a
sharp craft knife, metal edged ruler, cutting board for nice straight edges - and several strokes of
the knife, rather than trying to cut all the way through at once.)  If the design is an 'odd' size,
decide now what size you want to use as standard frames are much less expensive than custom

Glue moderately thin batting (I use poly cotton - Joann's) onto one side of the foam core.  (I used
to use white glue, but found the warping a problem.  I changed to rubber cement and that resolved
that problem.  Glue sticks may also be used.)

Press (with an iron) the design from the back on a plush towel (makes the stitches stand out) and
enhances the appearance of the finished stitchery.  

Measure the design.  Calculate the difference between the design size and the cut foam core.  
Divide each difference by 2 so the design is centered.  Change that dimension to number of threads,
according to the fabric you are using. Count threads from the edge of the design to the edge of the
mounting board.  Add a few threads (2-4 or more, depending on the fabric you are using and how
tight you want the finished results - you develop a 'feel' for what works for you.)


Using sequin pins (1/2"- craft shop - 400 pins / pack - inexpensive) and following the thread you
have determined, press the sequin pins into the edge of the foam core - corners first, middles of
each side, then keep going around adding pins - every 4 stitches on aida, 8 stitches in 28 count linen
or evenweave.  If the design is large, put pins in between the middles and the corners before adding
the individual pins to help keep the fabric even.  Remember, these pins can be moved if necessary.  
If mounting linen it helps to leave the pin heads stick 'out' a little bit to keep them from popping
through the fabric and not holding.

When 'pinned' closely the whole way around, the design should look nice and even and not be so tight
that the foam core bends forward.

I use masking tape perpendicular to the edges of the fabric (tried along the edge and it peeled up)
to secure those edges on the back of the foam core.  (Other tape that holds the fabric to the foam
core securely may be used.)  Little strips of the tape hold securely to the foam core.  Each should
be 2-3" long - at least an inch (or more) should be on the fabric.  Use quite a few pieces to make it
secure.  (If pins are sticking out, now is the time to push them in the whole way.)

Placing in frame

If using a frame, the finished product should fit right into the right size frame (you can always fit
the foam core into the frame when it is cut - it should have a little 'play' to allow for the fabric,
but the fabric is not very thick, so not a lot of excess space is needed).

Since the back of a framed piece should be covered, the appearance of the back will not 'show' in a
properly framed piece.

If using glass, clean and insert into frame.  Apply spacer bars to the glass snugly along the edges
of the indentation of the frame.  

Insert the mounted stitchery into the frame.  Make sure (the glass if used is clean and) the
stitchery appears through the front of the frame as desired.  

Secure the stitchery in place.  (I use a large outdoor type stapler, pressing along the edge of the
stitchery and stapling into the inside edge of the frame, but NOT into or through the stitchery.)  
Apply one staple along each side.  (The staples should stick out a bit and hold the stitchery
securely in place.)  Look in the front to be sure the stitchery looks OK in the frame.  Then insert a
few more staples, one in each side of the frame at a time - being sure each corner is secure and
does not stand away from the front of the frame.  Do not add so many staples that the integrity of
the frame is jeopardized.

Covering Back (Dust Cover)

Cut a piece of craft paper slightly larger than the frame.  
Using white glue, squeeze a bead of glue around the back surface of the frame.  Spread the glue out
toward the inside edge of the frame.  Apply the craft paper to the glue, nice and smoothly.  Rub all
edges to be sure of attachment to frame.  Using a metal edged ruler and craft knife, score the
craft paper the whole way around at 1/2 the width of the frame.  Remove the excess craft paper.  
Using a damp cloth, remove exposed white glue.
Framing for Yourself
Copyright 2011-2012-2013-2014-2015-2016
Susan Saltzgiver Designs

Copyrighted material (images, text)
may not be reproduced by any means.  
They are protected by copyright laws
and to do so is prosecutable by law.  

Last updated 12/8/2016
Please let me know via the contact page if you found these instructions helpful / useful.
Framing Instructions
When we stitch we are
like mushrooms and moles -
Our best work is done while
we are 'hidden away'.
Logo - Susan Saltzgiver Designs, Mushrooms and Moles
Quilt Blocks - 5 Sided
Mushrooms and Moles logo - by Susan Saltzgiver Designs
Hanging Wire
Measure the side of the frame.  Divide measurement by 3.  Measure down from top of frame (make sure this is the top) 1/3 the length of
a side (the number you got when you divided by 3).  Make a small mark at 1/2 the width of the frame.  Insert a screw eye at the location
of the mark and screw in to base of ‘eye’.  Do the same thing on both sides.  End with the ‘eye’ openings being across from each other.  

Cut a piece of picture wire (a multi strand wire) twice as long as the distance between the two screw eyes.

Insert the picture wire through the two eyes, pulling the wire taut and having the ends even.  Bend both ends toward the center.  Take
each end of the wire back through the loop of the screw eye two times (each) and pull the wires tight each time (I always put one twist
up and one down in the screw eye, against the frame).  Then keep going around the hanging wire and pulling the loose ends toward the
screw eye after each wrap to make a nice consistent, tight wrap, until the loose wire is used up.

Now you are ready to hang up your framed piece to be enjoyed by all, and you can have the pride of knowing you did it all yourself.